Over the summer of 2024, I got the opportunity of a lifetime to work on the famous "White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad" Out of Skagway Alaska. Such an experience is something that can't not change how a person views the world, and themself.
How I began the journey from Boone North Carolina to Skagway
Skagway Alaska is a small town of approximately One Thousand people located on the northernmost end of the "Lynn Canal" Which is the longest and deepest "Fjord" In North America. The town sits isolated against the Lynn Canal to it's south, and the "Coastal Mountains" and Mendenhall Glacier to it's north. The journey from Boone, NC to Skagway was one that traversed over three and a half thousand miles utilizing almost every conventional mode of Transportation to achieve.
The Journey began when I made the decision to apply for a summer job working for the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad. I was frustrated with my hotel job in Boone, and I missed being able to be on the railroad on a daily basis. As that was the life I had while living in Bryson City. I was totally enraptured by my nostalgia of working with the GSMRR and desperately wanted to relive that adventure in some tangible way. In February of 2024, I rolled the dice and applied for a brakeman's position on the WP&YR. I had assumed that the position would be something similar to what I had experienced previously as far as job duties. Mostly customer service mixed with elementary level railroad operations and procedures. Later on in March I made a trip to Rockhill Furnace PA to volunteer with the Friends of the East Broad Top. While en-route to PA, I got a phone call from an Alaska Phone number. So while in route to the East Broad Top Railroad, I also had my phone interview with the White Pass. The interview went well and they assured me that I would hear back from them soon with a definite answer. I continued on with my weekend as initially planned in PA.
Myself with a group of the trackwork team at the Friends of the East Broad Top Railroad.
The legendary Rockhill Furnace shops of the East Broad Top Railroad. Where I was enroute to when I had my phone interview with the WP&YR
Note: If one ever has the opportunity to visit the East Broad Top Railroad. You should take it as the entire facility is nothing less than fantastic.
In the meantime, I felt it would be a good idea to make connections with people in Skagway, learn the lay of the land, and attempt to get a grasp on what kind of place Skagway Alaska would be. So I joined a town facebook group and introduced myself. I managed to make friends with someone who will be hence referred to as: "Train Mom". She was also a southerner going north to Skagway, but was a veteran of the WP&YR, her information was extremely valuable to me. In April I got the phone call that I would be getting the opportunity of a lifetime to work for the WP&YR.
The Journey Begins.
Plans had to be set into motion immediately. In less than a month I would need to not only make the over three thousand mile trip from Boone to Alaska, but also I would need a specific set of equipment for myself not provided for by the company. I needed special footwear to meet their standards for safety, I needed to obtain a US Passport as I would be crossing the US/Canadian Border on a daily basis. I needed to obtain a whole list of material, as well as begin studying the CROR (Canadian Rail Operating Rules) as well as the necessary reading material provided to me by WP&YR. I also needed to have enough money set aside to be able to live in Skagway until my first paycheck came from the railroad. By the help of Generous friends, and family I managed to gather up all that I needed to make the Journey to Skagway.
Travel logistics to Alaska were very stressful to work out. I had a hard deadline to arrive in Skagway, and could not be late. As they were preparing to ramp up their "busy season" with the advent of the summer. My timetable was tight, and my resources were extremely limited. The decision was made to fly from Charleston South Carolina to Juneau via Alaska Airlines. As flights to Juneau are cheapest from Charleston. This flight did also include an overnight layover in The SeaTac Airport. I spent the night before the trip packing, unpacking, repacking, and weighing my luggage. This was going to be my first time ever flying and I could not afford to lose any time. My parents drove me to Charleston where I had a very nice Barbeque lunch at Saltwater Cowboys. I then went down to the beach and had a good long look at the Atlantic Ocean. As I would soon be seeing both oceans in one day. Then drop off at the airport with the expected maternal dramatics, one cup of Sweet Tea from Chick Fil A later, and the boarding call was made for my flight to Seattle then we chased the sun westward.
Looking out at the Atlantic Ocean from Mt Pleasant South Carolina
Lunch at Saltwater Cowboys in Mt Pleasant.
Pulled pork BBQ, Baked Mac and Cheese, Collard greens, and a glass of sweet tea my last taste of southern style food before leaving for Alaska.
Ticket in hand, ready for the road ahead.
But first, Chick-Fil-A
Waiting to board the Plane in Charleston.
Flying westward, chasing the sun from sea to shining sea towards Seattle.
We Landed in Seattle a little before 9:00pm I was immediately bombarded with how different this place was to the place I had just left. I was, to put it mildly intimidated by the environment. The SeaTac airport seemed to perfectly illustrate every negative stereotype I had on large cities. I saw nothing green, nothing that looked natural to me. The Airport was a sea of people, with pipes, wires, and conveyor belts running every which way. Luggage cart rental kiosks that didn't work. It was a mess. I finally made it to the Hotel near the airport. Had a decent dinner at the "Casino" which was something more akin to an Applebee's with slot machines, and was ready to begin the next phase of the journey north.
The "Casino" at the Seatac Airport
Morning in Seattle was somewhat different. I got to see the beautiful cascade mountain range, I had a decent breakfast with fellow travelers. I sat down with a nice couple who informed me that they were also heading to Alaska on a cruise and that they would be riding the White Pass Railroad as part of their tour. After breakfast and check out time. I went back to the main terminal. Checked in for my flight, went back through security. I was now just hours away from setting foot in Alaska. To pass the time until my flight I found the underground trains that circle around the terminals to be a great way to entertain myself just riding in monotonous circles. Having not previously known that these trains were driverless and had no form of speed control, I found myself getting knocked to the ground with the rapid acceleration of the train. Finally it was time to board my second flight to Juneau. Where I got to see the Canadian Rockies from above. As well as a roundhouse in Seattle which I had to take a photo of from the plane.
waiting to pull away from the terminal in Seattle
Seattle roundhouse from the air.
Flying over Seattle heading north to Alaska.
Preparing to Land in Ketchikan, Alaska.
Ketchikan International Airport
We landed briefly in the small town of Ketchikan Alaska. Which was a very intense landing and takeoff as the runway as very short. The Ketchikan International Airport to me looked to be about the size of a gas station but with two floors, and two gates for boarding aircraft. The pilot informed us that they did not have the necessary air compressor equipment at Ketchikan so we got to watch them "Jump off" the jet engines from a tractor on the tarmac. I said to myself that is was definitely the most redneck thing I had seen since I left Boone. The flight from Ketchikan to Juneau was short, light, and pleasant. The plane was only a quarter of the way full and even the flight attendants took advantage of the light crowd. Myself and a few fellow travelers joined up at the back of the plane, and we discussed where we were traveling to. I met a young man from Alabama who works with large birds working at a bird sanctuary in Haines. I met another young man who would also be traveling to Skagway. These two would be my traveling companions on my way to Skagway. We landed in Juneau and waited for the hotel shuttle that never arrived. I sat in the cold spring air waiting. Until a well intended UBER Driver gave me a free ride to the Juneau Travelodge. I cannot describe in words how great of a disappointment the Juneau Travelodge was. From check in the smell of weed could knock you to the floor. There was no breakfast at the hotel in the morning, and as far as cleanliness in the rooms goes. I have seen better from 39.99 a night motels on the strip in Pigeon Forge, TN. If one is planning a trip to the capitol city of Alaska. For the same money I would go with one of the historic and potentially haunted hotels in Downtown.
Morning came, and I boarded the final leg of my journey to Skagway at the ferry terminal outside of Juneau. From Juneau the ferry trip was expected to take approximately six hours. As I settled in to my seat, and began chatting with my new friends The Captain made an announcement that made my blood curdle. "All passengers traveling to Skagway, Due to high winds there is a high probability that we may not be able to dock in Skagway this afternoon. If this is the case then we will need to turn around and drop you off in Haines and try again in the morning." Cell service was unavailable and so was updates on the weather. When we passed by a small town we would get fleeting cell service, on such occasion "Train Mom" had informed me that this happens from time to time. I had also learned that one of the cruise ships had to turn away from Skagway. So with what limited Cell service I had drifting from town to town. I called the only hotel in Haines to see if they had any vacancies for the evening. Just in case we were not able to make it. Nothing like some drama on the high seas. All the while I decided to enjoy listening to the soundtrack from the 1997 film "Titanic" as we sailed northward.
These photos were taken from the deck of the M.V. Hubbard enroute to Skagway.
The long narrow channel of the Fjord is decorated with glacier and snow fed waterfalls
After leaving Haines, We journeyed through a tight passage, coming around a sharp bend and could see the buildings, and the cruise ships at the port of Skagway we had arrived! Not yet out of the woods. The boat made a 180 degree turn, and backed up to the dock. I was gritting my teeth until the deck hands secured the ship to the dock and the ship's horn blew loudly. A journey of three days, two nights, and over three and a half thousand miles had come to an end. I had arrived in Skagway.
Preparing to tie up in Skagway.
We made it!
As I made my way off the ship. My first surprise was the smell. Having been to oceanfront towns in the south I had anticipated the strong humid salty air, and the smell of the ocean. Instead what I smelled in Skagway was the sweet Cottonwood trees. It was in the ferry terminal that I met up with my new boss, and on the truck ride over from the ferry to the enginehouse the reality of what I had done washed over me. I was three thousand miles away from everyone and everything I had ever known. The feeling of being homesick was immediate. I felt as if I wanted to tuck my tail and run back to North Carolina as fast as I could. However I felt a responsibility to see this through. Another new sensation had wiped over my tired body, jetlag. After gathering my radio, and uniform from the enginehouse and dropping those items off at the provided company housing. My manager asked if I would like to go on a trip with one of the crews as a passenger to see the railroad. I agreed to make the ride, I might as well had taken a nap to the sound of train noises. As sleep was the only thing my body wanted, especially after being in the cold wet Alaska air feeling the warmth of the kerosene stove in the Conductor's car. I do not remember most of this first trip over White Pass. I do remember the nostalgic smell of burning kerosene. Which brough warm memories of winter in the Blue Ridge Mountains to my mind.
Picture taken from the window of the train as we made our way up The White Pass summit.
Tired, and jet lagged. With my head pressed against the glass fighting off sleep. Finding comfort in the smell of burning kerosene and the rhythm of the steel wheels.
"Remember Captain, the trial never ends" - Conductor Eddie Morrow
quoting Q from Star Trek Next Gen to a young me.
R.W. Fay
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